YATRA OF GURDWARA SRI HEMKUNT SAHIB: THE CHERISHED DREAM OF ALL THE SIKHS

Every year several lac Sikh pilgrims pay their obeisance at Gurdwara Sri Hemkunt
Sahib which is situated in the Himalayas in the Chamoli District of Uttarakhand State
of India at a height of about 15,210 feet above the sea level. ‘Hemkunt’ means
‘Receptacle of Ice’. This holy shrine is dedicated to the Tenth Guru of the Sikhs Sri
Guru Gobind Singh Sahib who in his autobiographical work Bachitar Natak has
stated that in his previous life he meditated the Name of God at a place he has
mentioned as ‘HEMKUNT PARVAT’ adorned with seven peaks where earlier King
Panduraj (a character in the epic Mahabharata) had practised Yoga. Guru Sahib
Says :

Hemkunt Parbat hai Jahaan
Sapt sring sobhit hai tahaan
Sapt sring teh naam kahawa
Pand raaj jahan jog kamava

Guru Sahib says that ‘I was absorbed in deep meditation on Primal Power the
Supreme Being’. In his meditation when he became one with the God Almighty, He
ordained him to take birth to crush the cruel rulers. He further says that at this time
Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib and Mata Gujri Ji who later became his father and
mother were also meditating for union with the Incomprehensible Lord. The Service
that they rendered the God caused the pleasure of the Supreme Guru (i.e. the
Lord). When the Lord ordered me I was born in this Iron Age i.e. Kalyug.

Guru Sahib has also mentioned that ‘I had no desire to come to the world because I
was totally absorbed in devotion for the Holy Feet of the Lord. But the Lord made me
understand His Will and sent me in this world’ to show the world the path of truth, to
rid the world of superstitions and to preach the people to worship God alone. He
says that finally he accepted God’s word humbly by saying, ‘Thy word shall prevail in
the world, with Thy support’. Guru Sahib has warned not to worship him by saying
that ‘those who call me God shall into the pit of Hell be cast. I am but the slave of the
Supreme Being come to watch the world spectacle’.

Hemkunt Parvat, the site of worship by the great Guru remained in oblivion for about
a century and a half after compilation of Bachitar Natak. It is generally believed that
the composition of Bachitar Natak may have begun in 1688 at Paonta Sahib during
the first spurt of Guru Sahib’s literary activity and this autobiographical work must
have been completed before 1699 when Guru Sahib formed the ‘Khalsa Panth’
because this work does not refer to this event.

The initial efforts towards finding the location of this Holy site are attributed to
Mahakavi Bhai Santokh Singh who in 1843 in his book Gurpartap Suraj
Prakash dwelled on the theme that Guru Sahib in his previous birth had worshipped
at Hemkunt Parvat. After that in 1844 Pandit Tara Singh Narotam (1822-1891) a
well known Nirmala scholar in his book Sri Gur Tirath Sangreh determined its
location after referring to the Mahabharat text (1.119). Eighty five years later in 1929
Bhai Vir Singh, a well known Punjabi poet referred to this fact in his book Sri
Kalgidhar Chamatkar by mentioning that Guru Sahib in his previous birth had
worshiped God at Hemkunt Parvat.

It was this book which in fact led to a search
for the Holy place where Guru Sahib had worshipped during his previous birth.
A very interesting event in the discovery or re-discovery of Hemkunt Sahib is that in
1932 Sardar Sohan Singh who was working in the Indian regiment as a Granthi
posted at Tehri Garhwal came across Bhai Vir Singh’s book Sri Kalgidhar
Chamatkar. He was so much impressed by this fact that Sri Guru Gobind Singh
Sahib had worshipped at a parvat with seven peeks that he set out on a journey to
find this place.

He started his journey in 1933 and returned a year later without any
success. Next time near Gobind Ghat at a place called Pandukeshwar he asked the
local people if they knew of a parvat with seven peaks. Those people told him that
there is such a place called Lokpal (literal meaning protector of the world) which is
believed to be the site of meditation of Pandavas and that they consider this place a
very holy place. They also told Sardar Sohan Singh that they make an annual
pilgrimage to the lake which is situated at this place. After this dialogue with the local
people Sardar Sohan Singh proceeded further and reached the place which fully
resembled the accounts given in Bachitar Natak. Thus in 1934 Sardar Sohan Singh
had finally found this Holy place – HEMKUNT SAHIB, which is now visited by lacs
and lacs of Sikh pilgrims every year between June and October.
Sardar Sohan Singh returned from Hemkunt Sahib and contacted the Gurdwaras in
the nearby places such as Mussoorie and also met the common folk, but nobody

paid any heed to his finding. He then contacted the Sikh Gurdwara Parbandhak
Committee, Amritsar but this Committee also did not take any interest. Finally, he
visited Bhai Vir Singh in Amritsar, who listened to him carefully and after asking
several questions gave him Rs. 2100 and asked him to go back and start the
construction of a Gurdwara there. Bhai Vir Singh tried to publicise the location of this
Holy spot and also tried to help Sardar Sohan Singh in collecting funds for the
construction of the Gurdwara.
One day at Mussoorie when Sardar Sohan Singh was buying material for the
construction of Gurdwara Sri Hemkunt Sahib a Sikh ex-army sergeant named Sardar
Modan Singh asked him as to what was he doing. When Sardar Sohan Singh told
him about his mission Sardar Modan Singh became very much impressed and joined
him in his efforts. They both went to Sri Hemkunt Sahib and in 1936 with the help of
local people constructed a Gurdwara 10 feet x 10 feet in size at the site of the Tap
Asthan (place of meditation) of Guru Sahib. The Gurdwara was constructed on the
bank of the sweet-water lake (circumference roughly 2.5 km) in a narrow valley
surrounded by high mountains capped by seven peaks which Sri Guru Gobind Singh
Sahib had called ‘SaptSring’. In 1936, when Sardar Sohan Singh retired Sardar
Modan Singh shifted to Sri Hemkunt Sahib.

In 1937, Sri Guru Granth Sahib, the eternal scriptural Guru for the Sikh community
was installed in this Gurdwara and the daily tradition of recitation of ‘paath’ was
started. It was declared as a Gurdwara at the highest altitude in the world. Soon after
the construction of the Gurdwara Sikhs started paying their obeisance at this Holy
place every year. On February 13,1939 Sardar Sohan Singh died and after that
Sardar Modan Singh assumed the total responsibility. The first Sikh jatha of pilgrims
was sent in 1952 by Chief Khalsa Dewan, Amritsar. Since then inspite of some
natural calamities which have occurred in this area the Holy place has continued to
gain more and more popularity. The weather calamities at times have taken lives of
people and animals in this area but it has continued to attract more and more Sikh
pilgrims every year who undertake a very strenuous journey to reach this place
because of their profound faith.

In the early years, there was no shelter en route to Sri Hemkunt Sahib and Sardar
Modan Singh would take shelter from fierce wind and cold weather in hollowed out
tree trunks which stood at the grounds of Gobind Dham. From 1939 Sardar Modan
Singh served with devotion for the next 21 years. He not only maintained Gurdwara
Sri Hemkunt Sahib but also established Gurdwara Sahib Gobind Ghat (height 6000
feet) and Gurdwara Sahib Gobind Dham (height 10500 feet) to serve as base camps
for the pilgrims. Before his death in 1960, he set up Sri Hemkunt Sahib Management
Trust with headquarters at Kanpur which has now been shifted to Rishikesh. This
Trust replaced the previous buildings with new and more spacious buildings and
constructed two more Gurdwaras one each at Sri Nagar and Joshi Math. Now for

the convenience of the pilgrims Gurdwaras exist at various places on the rout which
provide accommodation and langar (community meal) to the pilgrims. In addition to
these four Gurdwaras which serve as base camps for the pilgrims Sants of Ber
Kalan have constructed a Gurdwara named Gurdwara Damdama Sahib at Nagrasoo
in-between Sri Nagar and Joshi Math.
As mentioned earlier before the Sikhs discovered Hemkunt Sahib as having been
associated with Sri Guru Gobind Singh Sahib the local people who lived in the valley
below considered this place a Holy place and made pilgrimages every year to the
lake on the shore of which Gurdwara Sri Hemkunt Sahib is situated. The other
persons who helped in the discovery of the site of Sri Hemkunt Sahib include Sardar
Thandi Singh and Sant Suraj Singh.

To reach this Holy Shrine there are two routs. The pilgrims from Punjab side pass
through Rishikesh, Dev Prayag, Srinagar, Rudra Prayag, Karna Prayag, Nanda
Prayag, Joshi Math, Vishnu Prayag, Gobind Ghat, Gobind Dham and finally reach
Sri Hemkunt Sahib. The pilgrims from Delhi side pass through Hapur, Rampur,
Kichha, Ranikhet, Choukhutia, Nand Prayag, PipalKoti, Joshi Math, Vishnu Prayag,
Gobind Ghat, Gobind Dham and reach Sri Hemkunt Sahib. Thus from Nand Prayag
onwards all the pilgrims take the same road. Before reaching Gobind Ghat, in
general, pilgrims take rest at Rishikesh or Sri Nagar or Nagrasoo or Joshi Math. The
pilgrams can stay at Gurdwara Sahib Rishikesh, Gurdara Sahib Sri Nagar, Gurdwara
Damdama Sahib, Nagrasoo, Gurdwara Sahib Joshi Math and Gurdwara Sahib
Gobind Ghat. At Gurdwara Damdama Sahib, Nagrasoo there exists a 5-storey
building for accommodating the pilgrims. At Gurdwara Sahib Joshi Math there are 36
small rooms including 20 with attached bathrooms and 7 small halls and one largesized hall. These rooms can accommodate 1200 – 1300 pilgrims, but at the time of
need 3000 pilgrms are accommodated.

From Rishikesh onwards the area is hilly. From Rishikesh after covering a distance
of about 200 kms. in buses, cars, scooters, motor cycles and taking rest in the
Gurdwaras on the way the pilgrims reach Gurdwara Sahib Gobind Ghat. At
Gurdwara Sahib Gobind Ghat 100 rooms with attached bathrooms, an equal number
without attached bathrooms and 30 large-sized halls have been constructed for the
pilgrims. In general, 7000-8000 pilgrims are accommodated but if needed 10,000
pilgrims can be accommodated. In addition to langar the pilgrims are provided
bedding as per the need of the climate. At Gurdwara Sahib Gobind Ghat in addition
to a large-sized parking place for the Gurdwara there is a 4-storey car parking for the
pilgrims. The staff at this Gurdwara includes 30 persons. Earlier no vehicle was
allowed to go beyond this place and the remaining distance of 19-20 kms. had to be
covered on foot or mule riding or kandi or dandi. In kandi or pithoo system a person
generally a child is carried on the kand (back) of a porter who charges money for this
service. In dandi system the person is carried in an improvised palanquin which is
carried by four persons. These three systems facilitate old persons and children to
undertake this strenuous yatra.

In 2016 Sri Hemkunt Sahib Management Trust decided to allow the four-wheeled
vehicles only upto Gobind Ghat instead of Pulna and arranged public conveyance
round the clock between Gobind Ghat and Pulna at the rate of Rs. 35 per person.
However, the scooters and moter cycles were allowed to go up to Pulna. The 14-km
journey from Gurdwara Sahib Gobind Ghat to Gurdwara Sahib Gobind Dham is a
very tiresome venture. A vast majority of the pilgrims prefer to walk on foot from
Gobind Ghat to Gobind Dham. Only those who cannot walk ride mules or resort
to kandi or dandi system. Depending on their health status the pilgrims cover this 14-
km hilly track in 6 to 10 hours. At Gobind Dham all the pilgrims take rest for the night.
The next day early in the morning they resume their remaining 5-6 km journey.
From Gobind Dham pilgrims take 5-7 hours to reach Gurdwara Sri Hemkunt Sahib.
At the end of this journey the pilgrims have to go up about 1000 stony steps.

The 19-20 km journey from Gobind Ghat to Sri Hemkunt Sahib is an ‘up hill’ task in the
real sense of the word. But on reaching Sri Hemkunt Sahib, a place of utter beauty
and peaceful serenity the pilgrims are so much impressed by the scenic beauty of
the surrounding mountains and the lake that they feel that they have gotten closer to
their Guru and thereby closer to God Almighty. Some pilgrims are so much
engrossed in the charismatic power of Sri Hemkunt Sahib that they go on this
pilgrimage every year.

The panoramic view from the Gurdwara of the snow covered
peaks is just marvellous. The words fail to describe this charismatic power.
The sarovar (the holy tank) on the shore of which the Gurdwara is situated gives a
very impressive look. All the pilgrims take a dip in the freezing water of
this sarovar (holy tank) and this takes away all the fatigue of the strenuous journey.
The pilgrims are not allowed to stay over night at Hemkunt Sahib because of
insufficient oxygen. After paying obeisance and taking a dip in the water of
the sarovar they resume their return journey.

They spend only 1-1½ hours at Sri Hemkunt Sahib and return to Gobind Dham where they have to generally spend
another night. Only a few pilgrims reach Gobind Ghat the same day.
At all these Gurdwaras adequate langar facilities are provided. At all the Gurdwaras
food provisions are hoarded for atleast 15 days in advance. First aid and medical
facilities are also provided at all these Gurdwaras free of cost.
Sri Hemkunt Sahib Management Trust has done laudable work of providing the
necessary facilities for the pilgrims. However, at Gobind Ghat and Gobind Dham
several hotels have come up which charge exorbitant rates during the season. It is
time that this Trust constructs some more accommodation facilities at these two
places to avoid looting of the pilgrims by the hotel owners. Punjab Government can
also take necessary steps in this direction. Every year there are several complaints

by the pilgrims that the dhabas (eating places) on the way charge exorbitant prices
for food including tea and drinking water. To evade exploitation of the pilgrims by the
shopkeepers they have been directed to display rate lists. The Trust has also fixed
rates for mule riding, kandi and dandi systems. For the safety of the pilgrims the
mule owners have been asked to insure their mules.
Every year Yatra of Sri Hemkunt Sahib starts in May with ardaas (Prayer) at
Gurdwara Sri Hemkunt Sahib in which several lac pilgrims participate. The
registration of the pilgrims is started at Rishikesh 3-4 days earlier. The helicopter
service from Gobind Ghat to Gobind Dham has been started.
The total Yatra from Rishikesh to Sri Hemkunt Sahib takes atleast two days and two
nights. The pilgrims come not only from Punjab and other parts of India but also from
all over the world. The pilgrimage to Gurdwara Sri Hemkunt Sahib is an act of deep
devotion among the Sikhs.

This year i.e., in 2022 Gurdwara Sri Hemkunt Sahib was opened on May 22 for the
devotees. The first jatha of Sikhs departed from Gobind Ghat on May 19 with the
jaikaras (ovation) Jo Bole So Nihal Sat Sri Akal (blessed shall be he who shouts)
“hail the true and the timless one”. Simultaneously the band was played to the tune
of the jaikara. The maximum number of daily pilgrims has been fixed as 5000.